So I’m sitting at home writing this post, seriously
California dreamin’. I understand why all the hippies in the ‘60s wrote so
frequently about the joys of California and wishing they were there. California
is one of my favorite places on earth, specifically San Francisco. There aren’t
many places in the world more unique, more beautiful or more awesome than San
Francisco, and this is why it’s my favorite city in the world. I had been
before as a child for the first time and came back years later in college to
watch University of Maryland play in the Emerald Bowl at the San Francisco
Giants stadium (what is wrong with this picture?). Several years later, my cool
cat father and I took the trip of a lifetime and drove down the Pacific Coast
Highway from San Francisco to San Diego, stopping at all the Major League
Baseball stadiums and other breathtaking sights along the way. I truly fell in
love with California that trip, but my most recent trip there solidified that
yes, I indeed need to live there one day.
After meeting Erika at Bonnaroo 2013, I knew immediately we
were friends/soulmates/partners-in-crime. We got drunk at Walk the Moon, discovered
Nicki Bluhm, painted each other’s faces, and most importantly, washed each
other’s hair after long nights in the Tennessee sun and cooking in the sauna
that were the camping tents. In a word, we were inseparable. Although I’m sad
that we don’t live in the same city, I was beyond stoked when I found out she
was moving to San Francisco. I would definitely be visiting.
BONNAROOOOOOOO
I was finally able to visit San Francisco the last weekend of January 2014. Having essentially the exact same mind, she was way ahead of me when she informed me that Nicki Bluhm would be performing at the legendary Fillmore West Theatre. This trip (and this concert) were going to be awesome for so many reasons.
I arrived in San Francisco on a Thursday night, and I was
finally reunited with my Bonnaroo partner-in-crime. The universe was again as
it should be. I knew the trip was off to a good start when Erika and I made the
wise decision to welcome me to San Francisco at the diviest of dive bars in the
SoMa neighborhood. This bar was complete with pool tables, satanic porn art
graffiti, west coast hipsters and Disney love songs remixed with rap. I think I
made it to the promised land (I had this epiphany several times during my trip –
I think it’s a telling revelation).
My first full day in San Francisco was a day of wandering
and sightseeing. The food mecca of San Francisco, the Ferry Building, gave me
the best seafood I’ve had in a while (and mutant seagulls). We wandered over to
Fisherman’s Wharf – not for the overpriced tourist SWAG, but for the largest
collection of sea lions I’ve ever seen. We walked to Ghiradelli for some free
sundaes and to the Marina for some delicious strawberry cocktails and beautiful
views (I don’t mean the men at what is called fondly by San Franciscans, the ‘Dateway’).
Dinner consisted of BALLER Chinatown food, more dive bars and San Francisco
history lessons from surfer BRAHs on Polk Street.
The following day was my favorite of all and one I look back on with the distinct thought that San Francisco is where I belong. Today was the day I would return to my mecca – Haight-Ashbury – and see Nicki Bluhm in a musical institution. What was not to like? Especially considering I was wearing a tank top in January. We started with breakfast tacos in the Mission District (BREAKFAST TACOS?! AM I BACK IN AUSTIN! THIS IS HEAVEN!) and bottomless-ish mimosas. From there, we walked to one of the best places on earth – Dolores Park. This a park in the middle of San Francisco, filled with hippies to families to frat boys on the weekends. Picture the lawn of a concert venue – people on blankets with picnics, Frisbees, some harmless experimenting. Then take away the concert. This was just a giant lawn of people loving life and California sunshine. Erika and I made some new friends from inland California who offered us beverages, serenaded us with ukuleles, and offered friendly games of Frisbees. Dolores is notorious (or beloved by locals, as I see it) by a wonderful human being named the Truffle Man. He sells tasty edibles out of his truck and in San Francisco, business is GOOD. He was not there on this particular Saturday, BUT we did see a lovely young lady dressed in a Bavarian beer goddess outfit, selling edibles out of a wooden basket – pretty awesome.
Us on San Francisco Bay!
The following day was my favorite of all and one I look back on with the distinct thought that San Francisco is where I belong. Today was the day I would return to my mecca – Haight-Ashbury – and see Nicki Bluhm in a musical institution. What was not to like? Especially considering I was wearing a tank top in January. We started with breakfast tacos in the Mission District (BREAKFAST TACOS?! AM I BACK IN AUSTIN! THIS IS HEAVEN!) and bottomless-ish mimosas. From there, we walked to one of the best places on earth – Dolores Park. This a park in the middle of San Francisco, filled with hippies to families to frat boys on the weekends. Picture the lawn of a concert venue – people on blankets with picnics, Frisbees, some harmless experimenting. Then take away the concert. This was just a giant lawn of people loving life and California sunshine. Erika and I made some new friends from inland California who offered us beverages, serenaded us with ukuleles, and offered friendly games of Frisbees. Dolores is notorious (or beloved by locals, as I see it) by a wonderful human being named the Truffle Man. He sells tasty edibles out of his truck and in San Francisco, business is GOOD. He was not there on this particular Saturday, BUT we did see a lovely young lady dressed in a Bavarian beer goddess outfit, selling edibles out of a wooden basket – pretty awesome.
In the meantime, we secured our Nicki Bluhm tickets and
wandered over to Haight-Ashbury – those hills ain’t no joke. We sat in a local
institution in the Haight, Squat and
Gobble, and reenergized with some grub and most importantly, mucho amounts
of coffee. We were able to go into a few thrift shops and other hemp-centric
stores in the Haight before it was time for us to head to the Fillmore.
Nicki Bluhm and the Gramblers hail from the Bay Area, so as
hometown heroes, Erika and I were excited to hear the show sold out for several
reasons. It is an honor to sell out the Fillmore because the venue will print a
concert poster for every patron and pass them out at the end of the show, and
frame one of the posters and post it in the Fillmore’s version of a Hall of
Fame of sold out shows. Nicki Bluhm was in great San Francisco company in this
department – Grateful Dead, Janis Joplin, The Doors, Jefferson Airplane,
Buffalo Springfield, and so on. I was in AWE. The tradition for sold out shows
at the Fillmore continues with the venue giving out free apples when patrons
enter the venue – we took advantage.
The venue was packed but Erika and I got a nice spot on
stage right. The crowd was a combination of old and new San Franciscans, proud
of their homegirl. The show opened with a local band named Goodnight, Texas – a
great band with an impressive acoustic set. They showcased folk sensibilities
combined with Irish and bluegrass sounds. Their set consisted mainly of classic
folk ballads, which was refreshing to hear without the drum-heavy and chanting common
in today’s folk scene.
After such a mellow set, the crowd was ready to rock out
with Nicki and the Gramblers. Nicki Bluhm and her band made their mark on YouTube with some Van Sessions videos, consisting of Nicki singing and playing childhood instruments and her band playing ukuleles and singing cover songs. Below is an example of their greatness:
Nicki came on stage looking like a true San Francisco goddess in a fitted black dress and her signature bangs. She is officially my style hero with her effortless California style and persona. They rocked the house and then some. This is probably one of the most utopian shows I've ever experienced. Nicki Bluhm identifies with "girl singers" - chick lead singers in a band of men. She's in good company if you ask me - Stevie Nicks of Fleetwood Mac and Grace Slick of Jefferson Airplane anyone?
In the middle of her set, she made the ultimate gesture to her hometown by covering "Somebody to Love" by Jefferson Airplane. SHE IS GRACE SLICK. It's incredible. I was in too much shock to take a video of this moment in the show as everyone was going insane, but here's a vid so you can see how awesome she is:
She very much falls into the category of rocker chicks like Grace Slick and Stevie Nicks, and more current rocker chicks like Grace Potter. I find her band, the Gramblers, to be similar to Grace Potter's band, the Nocturnals, with a bit of a funkier, folksy vibe. She covers other heroes like Linda Ronstadt:
Her originals are just as fun, funky and empowering - this is one of hers called "I'm Your Woman":
Erika and I rocked our faces off, forgetting about how much our feet were killing us and ended the night on a fabulous note. We got our posters, another apple and cabbed home delirious and euphoric.
I wasn't in San Francisco long this time around, but I will absolutely be back. Hopefully for an extended period of time.
Erika & I at Mission Street brunch!
Apples anyone?!?!
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